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Chin Chin is one of Seoul’s first upscale makgeolli bars, and still one of the best, doling out milky concoctions from around the country – the Horangi (‘Tiger’) brand is particularly delicious, though quite expensive at ₩25,000 per bottle.Elegant vases of more regular makgeolli cost around ₩10,000, but whatever you choose, also be sure to grab some of the excellent food too.On the other side of the road is the latest Dongdaemun accessory: the Dongdaemun Design Plaza, a futuristic complex designed by Zaha Hadid, and a pretty good indicator of Seoul’s architectural intentions.The Korean Queer Culture Festival takes place in early June around Jongno-gu and the Cheonggyecheon Stream.Prices start at an incredible ₩35,000 per shirt and, since your measurements will be kept on file, you’ll be able to order more from abroad.

The private collection reveals different portrayals of the humble chicken through culture and art.The west side of the road is a near- continuous run of skyscraper malls: Doosan Tower (‘Doota’ to its friends) is the tallest, but Migliore, Cerestar and Hello APM are equally busy.Knock-off brand-name goods are a speciality both in and around these buildings.Alternative lifestyle choices are generally kept under wraps in a culture that can mercilessly punish the slightest infraction against its norms, but at least for a day pride shines with rainbows, face paint, queer film screenings and a parade.Be considerate of camera-shy participants (and somewhat paranoid staff) and leave your camera at home.

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